The
Legendary Origins of Tea
The
story of tea began in ancient China in 2737
B.C.According to legend, Shen Nong, an early emperor
was a skilled ruler, creative scientist and patron of
the arts. His far-sighted edicts required, among other
things, that all drinking water be boiled as a
hygienic precaution. One summer day while visiting a
distant region of his realm, he and the court stopped
to rest. In accordance with his ruling, the servants
began to boil water for the court to drink. Dried
leaves from a near by bush fell into the boiling
water, and a brown liquid was infused into the water.
As a scientist, the Emperor was interested in the new
liquid, drank some, and found it very refreshing. And
so, according to legend, tea was created. (This myth
maintains such a practical narrative, that many
mythologists believe it may relate closely to the
actual events, now lost in ancient history).
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Afternoon
Tea in England
Tea
mania swept across England as it had earlier spread
throughout France and Holland. Tea importation rose
from 40,000 pounds in 1699 to an annual average of
240,000 pounds by 1708. Tea was drunk by all levels of
society.
Prior to the introduction of tea into Britain, the
English had two main meals-breakfast and dinner.
Breakfast was ale, bread and beef. Dinner was a long,
massive meal at the end of the day. It was no wonder
that Anna; the Duchess of Bedford (1788-1861)
experienced a "sinking feeling" in the late
afternoon. Adopting the European tea service format,
she invited friends to join her for an additional
afternoon meal at five o'clock in her rooms at Belvoir
Castle. The menu centered around small cakes, bread
and butter sandwiches, assorted sweets, and, of
course, tea. This summer practice proved so popular,
the Duchess continued it when she returned to London,
sending cards to her friends asking them to join her
for "tea and a walk in the fields." (London
at that time still contained large open meadows within
the city.) Other social hostesses quickly picked up
the practice of inviting friends to come for tea in
the afternoon. A common pattern of service soon
merged. The first pot of tea was made in the kitchen
and carried to the lady of the house who waited with
her invited guests, surrounded by fine porcelain from
China. The first pot was warmed by the hostess from a
second pot (usually silver) that was kept heated over
a small flame. Food and tea was then passed among the
guests, the main purpose of the visiting being
conversation.
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Teas
from Around The World
The
processing, maturity and form of the leaf give tea its
taste - the region in which it grows gives its
character. There are more than 1500 different teas to
choose from, grown in more than 25 listed producer
countries all around the world. Teas can be defined by
origin- for example India, Sri Lanka, Africa, China,
Indonesia or by methods of blending. Together these
countries produce 79% of world tea and 86% of world
exports.
Sri
Lanka
The
"island of tea", produces black tea known
for its rich, full, astringent flavor and aromatic
amber liquid. The country exports approximately 21% of
world's teas. While the different growing areas
produce teas of differing flavor and colour, the
principal specialties are Ceylon Blend, Dimbula,
Nuwara liya and Uva.
Africa
Four
countries: Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania and Zimbabwe
produce 25% of the world's exports. The most recent of
the tea producers, Eastern Africa, is now a major
force among tea growers, producing excellent teas
which are used for blending all over the world.
China
The
birthplace of tea produces approximately 18% of world
exports. Chinese black teas are mild and have a low
theine content. This makes them an ideal evening or
afternoon tea. Green tea, however is what China is
synonomous with. These teas are never drunk with sugar
or milk and are usually known to have a long lasting
taste, flowery bouquet and clear liquid. China
produces four other principal teas for which the
country is famous: oolong, white, flavored and
compressed.
Indonesia
Produces
approximately 8% of world's exports. Java and Sumatra
are the main growing areas. The tea from this region
is light, Flavorful and bright in colour.
India
Teas
from India, are black teas designed to satisfy
"western" tastes and are therefore
characterised by their full-bodied flavor and rich,
deeply coloured liquor. India also produces a teas
with a more subtle taste that can be as delicate as
the semifermented teas from China and Formosa. Indian
teas therefore, offer a fine initiation into the taste
of tea. India is one of the main tea growers,
exporting more than 14% of the world's tea and with
over 400,000 hectares under cultivation. Although
indigenous to the Assam region, the first commercially
produced teas were raised from seeds brought from
China. By the 1840s, India was producing regular
shipments for sale at auction in London. Gradually the
planting of estates grew throughout the country form
Nilgiri in the south to Darjeeling in the north.
The plantations range form low-grown areas (sea level
up to 2000 feet) to high-grown (more than 4000ft
high). Generally plucked from March to October, each
area produces teas of distinctive character.
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Indian
Tea
Assam
Assam
is a major growing area covering the Brahmaputra
valley, stretching form the Himalayas down to the Bay
of Bengal. There are 655 estates covering some 168,000
hectares. Assam tea has distinctive flecked brown and
gold leaves known as "orange' when dries. It is
well known as a good blender that offers lots of body.
Its fragrance is less intense than other Indian teas,
particularly Darjeeling. The familiar maltiness in the
medium gardens is satisfying and continues to be very
popular. Exceptionally fine cloning has created
intensely rich Assams with beautiful gold tips. These
pretty gold and black teas offer a taste that is not
too astringent with good body, some of the best Assam
has to offer. These are morning teas par excellence
with strong taste and a dark liquor. They go well with
a drop of cold milk.In flavor it is robust, bright
with a smooth malt pungency and is perfect as the
first cup of the day.
Darjeeling
In
the northeast of India, between Nepal and Bhutan lie
sixty one gardens. They produce the highly prized
"Champagne" of black teas on grand estates
perched at altitudes of over five thousand feet. The
incomparable quality of these teas is the result of
climate, altitude and skillful blending. These are the
most rarest and prestigious of the black teas. They
are generally sold in the best grade of whole leaves -
G.F.O.P.,T.G.F.O.P., and F.T.G.F.O.P., Darjeeling is
grown on the foothills of the Himalayas, on over
18,000 hectares at about 7000 ft. Light and delicate
in flavor and aroma, and with undertones of muscatel,
Darjeeling is an ideal complement to dinner or
afternoon tea. The Gardens in this snug hill station
are ranked the best in the world. The quality of the
leaf being so superior, it is not easy to distinguish
their flavor. Also since the taste of Darjeeling
varies form season to season, Darjeeling teas are
rather classified according to their harvest periods.
First
Flush Darjeeling - These are springtime teas,
harvested from late February to mid-April. The young
leaves yield a light tea with a flavor of green muscat.
Their arrival is keenly awaited by connoisseurs, and
the potent tea is sometimes air-freighted. A gentle
afternoon tea.
Second
Flush Darjeeling - Harvested in May and June, the
constitution of these leaves are more fully
constructed, making a bright liquor with a full, round
and fruity taste. An afternoon tea.
In
Between Darjeeling - These intermediate teas are
harvested in April and May and combine the greenness
of the first flush teas with the maturity of the first
flush varieties.
Autumnal
Darjeeling - Large leaves and a coppery liquor
characterize the round taste of this autumnal harvest.
This tea is best drunk in the morning with a bit of
cold milk.
Other
varieties of tea grown in India are also candy to the
connoisseur.
Dooar
- The alluvial deposits in the Dooars district in
north east India have been effectively used for tea
production. These are low grown teas, dark and
full-bodied, yet not as strong as Assam teas. A
daytime tea that goes well with a drop of milk.
Terai
- Grown on the plains to the south of Darjeeling, the
brew from this leaf is richly coloured, the taste
spicy and liqueur-like. An anytime tea often used in
blends. They tolerate a bit of cold milk as well
Nilgiris-
In the south of India stand the fragrant Blue
Mountains, or Nilgiris. Nilgiri teas have established
themselves in the triumvirate of India teas. Nilgiris
are like good everyday table wines: reliable, with
colour and heavy nose. They fall between he two
extremes of Indian tea, the hearty Assam and the
delicate Darjeelings. Nilgiris are also ideal for
experimentation, creating popular oolong and green
varieties that never spoil in the cup from
oversteeping. Its innate ability not to cloud makes it
a perfect choice for iced tea. Their soft flavor also
makes them wonderful foils for flavorings, scents and
fruits. These leaves produce a full-bodied, strong and
coppery liquor. These are intermediate teas that evoke
teas from Northern India while resembling Ceylon teas.
They are best taken in the morning with milk.
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